Before you buy

• Be prepared to shop around. Don't buy the first puppy you find.
• Talk to as many breeders as you can. Go to shows, look on the internet and call them on the phone.
  
• Ask the breeder many questions - what are they breeding for (health, good temperaments, show dogs etc. Make sure this fits with your expectations.
• Is the Sire or Dam available for you to see? Do the dogs and puppies you see appear healthy and clean.
• What kind of environment are the dogs and puppies in - are they all well cared for.
• Is the breeder willing to show you health records, vaccinations records, worming schedules
• Does the breeder provide a written bill of sale. Is there a health warranty.
  
• Have the pups been examined by a licensed Veterinarian.
• Do they provide CKC registration papers or a litter registration paper at time of sale.
• How old are the puppies when they send them to their new homes. They should be a minimum of 7 weeks old. Good breeders keep the puppy until after the ears are cropped and the stitches are removed.
• Don't rely on having a young son or daughter contact the breeder for information. This needs to be done by the adult in the family and one who is old enough to sign a legal contract.
  

Make sure you have researched Dobermans and have made an informed decision that it's the right breed for you. The rewards of owning a Doberman are many. Before you buy a puppy though - have you considered rescuing a Doberman. Remember that there are adult Dobermans who, for a variety of reasons find themselves in need of a loving home.
Acquiring a dog, like anything else, takes patience and some leg work. In the end though it's all worth it to find that right companion for you and your family.

Choosing a Breeder
What to look for in Good/Responsible Breeders

A good breeder:

• Is eager to share detailed breed information and grabs every opportunity to educate.
• Believes there are no "stupid" questions.
• Explains total breed care.
• Talks about training and development.
• Explains genetic defects in the breed.
• Questions the buyers ability to care for the dog.
• Will ask you a lot of questions.
• Will expect you to ask a lot of questions.
• Will try to determine if their breed is right for you, and may steer you in another direction if they think their breed is not right for you.
  
• Will try to determine if a puppy is right for you and may suggest an older or rescue dog.
• Will require you to have a fully fenced yard.
• Provides advice, feedback, and other help to people who have purchased a puppy from him/her or anyone.
• Are familiar with their line for several generations.
• Is knowledgeable about the mating and whelping of dogs in general, so as to minimize the chances of injury or death to the breeding dogs.
• Tell you about their dogs faults as well as strengths.
• Help you select a puppy that has a temperament that's compatible with you and your handling skills.
• Correctly socializes their pups and otherwise do everything to insure that their guarantees are meaningful.
• Will offer to refund your money or give you a replacement puppy if your puppy develops health problems.
• Considers temperament important.
• Supplies shot records, pedigrees, care information.
• Is willing to let you see the dam and any other relatives available and tell you about their dogs' siblings.
• Cares about each and every pup.
• Maintains sanitary, clean quarters for the dogs.
• Tests all breeding stock and will let you see the test results and certificates.
• Will provide you with pedigrees.
• Are active in showing/obedience/hunting/agility, etc.
• Will want to keep tabs on you and your dog for the dog's life.
• Has spent a number of years studying and learning about their breed.
• Is active in one or more breed clubs or similar groups.
• Uses non-breeding (spay/neuter) contracts to prevent the casual breeding of their puppies.
• Any animal used for breeding is proven in some way to have the abilities and other characteristics essential to the breed.
• Keeps at least one puppy in each litter for his/her breeding program (otherwise, what was the purpose of the breeding?).
• Encourages all puppy owners to test their puppies for various health problems and report them back to the breeder so that the breeder has a broad as well as a deep knowledge of what is in his/her lines.
• Do not sell their puppies on-line, through pet stores, or advertise in the newspaper.

In addition to these points - here's what you should look for in your breeder:

• The very best breeders are second or third generation breeders who love dogs in general; may have owned different breeds before settling on the one to breed; have worked/shown/competed w/their dogs; raise their puppies in the house instead of kennels or kennel buildings; like people and are willing to answer all sorts of questions. Genuinely care about their puppies and want you to keep them up to date on their progress and health. If you choose to import a dog you may not, in fact probably will not, get a guarantee, even from the best, most responsible breeders.
• A responsible breeder is one who always puts the best interests of the breed and of individual dogs first, above any consideration of profit, trendiness, or personal ambition. A responsible breeder does not produce a litter just to have pups to sell or just because a bitch happened to come into season. He/she produces a litter only after careful consideration of the physical qualities and temperament of the proposed parents, their individual strengths and weaknesses, how their pedigrees (ancestors) relate, and what the proposed breeding would contribute to the improvement of the breed. This is often a difficult and time-consuming process; therefore, it is not surprising to find that a responsible breeder considers the puppies as his/her "kids" and wants only the best homes for them.
• You will know you have found a responsible breeder when the breeder makes you prove you are qualified to own one of their puppies. If a breeder doesn't ask you any questions (Is your yard fenced - why do you want this breed - how many dogs have you owned in your life - at what ages did they die, and how did they die - have you ever gotten rid of a dog & why - what do you know about raising and training dogs) but only asks to see your checkbook, run don't walk away. If the breeder makes you feel like you are trying to adopt one of their kids, you have found a responsible breeder. If a breeder will sell to you without giving you the third degree, run don't walk away. A breeder who sells carefully will have bred the litter carefully. A breeder who sells to anyone who walks in probably bred the litter about as casually.
• And a breeder who demands that you sign a contract requiring that you return the puppy to them, if at any time, at any age, for any reason you decide not to keep the dog, is a responsible breeder. A responsible breeder will always be willing to take back one of their dogs - they feel responsible for every puppy they sell, for that dog's entire life.

Please see below for a list of breeders that are current club members.  This directory is listed annually as a service to prospective purchasers.  While the breeders listed are BCDPC members, inclusion does not constitute a BCDPC endorsement or recommendation of any kind.  Breeders listed appear at the request of the member after payment of a nominal fee.
The listing is alphabetical by the kennel name.  There is no ranking or preference provided to any breeder listed. Breeder Listing Form

BREEDER LISTING:

HOLMRUN DOBERMANS
Contact: V.Cherie Holmes
Duncan, BC
phone: 250-597-1849
email: holmrun@shaw.ca
website: www.holmrun.com
Puppies occasionally. Health tested.  Breeding for conformation, performance sports, and companionship. Stud services available.
 
LEGENDALE DOBERMANS
Contact: Lana Ferguson
Kamloops, BC
phone: 250-334-7313
email: vistabay@shaw.ca
website: www.legendaledobermans.com
Puppies occasionally.  Health tested.  Breeding for working sports, conformation.  Stud services available.

Disclaimer - please read this to understand referrals

 Disclaimer

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Doberman FAQ's

​Do Dobermans make good family pets?

Yes! Dobermans’ are naturally protective of their "pack". Young children should never be left unattended with a puppy, however, if the children learn to respect the puppy as a living being, the puppy will be a wonderful companion for the children as they all grow up together. Your dog's ranking in the "pack" should always be established as the bottom (Omega) member below humans.

What traits are inherent in Dobermans generally?

The breed is naturally loyal, intelligent and protective. A Doberman thrives on regular exercise, mental stimulation and a well-balanced diet. These traits make a Doberman an absolute pleasure to own when well-trained, but in the hands of a novice, unconcerned, uncommitted owner, their intelligence and drive can become difficult to manage. Breeding plays an important role in the temperament of Doberman’s, so selecting a reputable breeder concerned with both physical health and the personality of their puppies is of utmost importance. Different bloodlines exhibit traits differently, so question breeders about the strong and weak traits of their bloodlines.

What should I look for in a Doberman puppy?

Obviously, many factors affect the selection of the puppy, including the personality and lifestyle of the prospective owner. Avoid puppies that appear too shy or nervous. Puppies at an age where they can be sent home with their new owners should be inquisitive and curious. Meet the Dam and as many of the ‘relatives’ as possible since character is very important. The puppies' parents should be OFA (Orthopedic Foundation of America) certified (preferably "Good" or "Excellent"). They should both have their vWD (von Willebrand’s Disease – a bleeding disorder) checked by DNA. They should also both have their Thyroid checked preferably by Michigan Sate University, and they should both have been Holter Monitored or had their heart checked. Make sure you see the parents' certifications.

The OFA is the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals. When potential breeding stock reaches the age of 2, the breeder should have a set of x-rays taken and submit them to the OFA for certification. OFA will return a certification (Excellent, Good, or Fair) along with a certification number for the dog. (Dysplastic dogs will not be given a certification number.)

Ask to look through the puppy's pedigree. Look for obedience titles, conformation titles, hip certifications and make sure that common ancestors are at least 3 generations back. If you don't understand something, ask the breeder! Work with your breeder to select a puppy that feels comfortable with your family. Reputable breeders will make suggestions to insure their puppies go to happy, well-chosen homes.

You can also ask if the puppies have been temperament tested and look at the results.

Can my breeder guarantee my puppy will not have heath problems?

Be wary of a breeder that says their puppies will definitely not have any health problems.

But, a responsible breeder will guarantee their puppies for life. The guarantee will vary. Some breeders will require you to return the puppy for a replacement; some will refund all or part of your money; some will not require you to return the puppy, but still offer a replacement or refund. Do not be dismayed at a requirement for a return of a puppy. A puppy may be in severe pain and an owner may not be emotionally prepared to put a puppy down who really should be put down. A responsible breeder will want what's best for the puppy/dog.

Should I get a male or female?

This is an age-old question - and one that requires a lot of thought and input from both you and the breeder to determine which will suit your lifestyle the best. Some people will say that males are more "location" protective while females are more "pack" protective. Males are generally larger and more territorial, so unless training steps are consistent, problems could arise (Neutering may help alleviate some problems). Any dog not intended for a breeding program should be neutered or spayed. Besides eliminating the possibility of unwanted puppies and reducing some undesirable behaviors, it's considerably healthier for your dog since it eliminates or severely reduces the chance of testicular or mammary cancers. Breeding should “never” be taken lightly.

How old should my puppy be before I take it home?

Puppies are weaned from their mothers by about 6 weeks of age, but the period following weaning is very important in terms of learning "pack" behavior. Although 8 weeks is old enough and a common age for leaving the litter, 10 weeks is probably optimum for a Doberman. However, better to take the puppy at 8 weeks if the rest of the litter have already gone to their homes. Puppies up to 12 weeks old should pose no additional concerns. After 12 weeks old, make sure the breeder has taken special care to socialize the puppy (puppies) with other dogs and people.

How big will my Doberman be?

The full adult size of your Doberman will depend in large part on the genetic background of its parents. The CKC Standard states that adult males height at the withers should range between 26 and 28 inches with an ideal at 27-1/2 inches (70cm) , females from 24 to 26 inches with an ideal at 25-1/2 inches (65 cm). Males within the standard may weigh anywhere from 75-95 lbs. depending on their bloodlines. Females may weigh anywhere from 55-75 lbs. (Again, much depends on the genetics and bloodlines. The above are only a rough idea.) Although your pup will reach close to adult height by 10-18 months, they will continue to fill out until up to 3 years old.

Be wary of breeders who emphasize "oversize", "huge", "big-boned" breeding stock or puppies. Bigger is not better in Doberman Pinschers. The Doberman is not built to have a skeletal and muscular structure of an oversize breed. An inch or so out of standard may be acceptable providing the general line is not consistently out of standard. A responsible breeder will offset an oversize dog by breeding with a line that is a bit smaller in order to maintain the standards as closely as possible.

What is "socializing" and why is it so important?

Socializing refers to exposing your puppy to a variety of experiences, including meeting lots of people of various ages, races, sizes and both sexes as well as teaching them how to acceptably interact with other dogs and pets. Puppy kindergarten classes provide an excellent opportunity for socialization in a controlled environment.

Socializing is important because it helps strengthen your dog's confidence and reduces the chance that your dog will become shy or fearful. Fearful dogs can become fear aggressive or fear biters.

What are my responsibilities as a new Doberman owner?

Do take your puppy to puppy kindergarten and obedience training classes and do your homework for these classes. Behaviors that are cute in a 15 pound puppy can be dangerous in a 75 pound adult. Socialize your puppy with people (especially children) and other dogs frequently (after your puppy has completed its immunization series sometime after 16 weeks old).

Your puppy may go through a period known as "adolescent shyness" when it reaches 4-5 months of age. This period can last until the pup is 12-18 months old. Socializing your puppy from an early age will help minimize this shyness. Expose your puppy to a variety of experiences, but do so gently. You don't want to traumatize your puppy.

Be careful of heavy physical exertion directly before and after eating, especially if your Doberman is a "gulper". Dobermans (and many other breeds) can suffer from bloat. If your dog's abdomen becomes distended and rigid and it can not seem to belch or pass gas, gastric torsion may be the problem. (The stomach twists.) This is an immediate health concern and you should contact your vet or an emergency clinic.

When should I switch my puppy to adult food?

Individual puppies and bloodlines will vary. You should discuss your puppy's growth and needs with both your vet and your breeder. Many breeders and dog food manufacturers advise switching to a high quality adult food at four to six months of age. As long as you are feeding a high quality food, this has no ill effect on the puppy and is probably a good idea. Check out the content of the food closely. A puppy or dog with average activity should have about 26% protein and 15-18% fat. Look for some kind of meat to be the first ingredient, not a grain product. Don't overlook feed stores as a good place to buy dog food. Often prices are less than at pet supply stores. (Please don't patronize pet stores that sell puppies. Pet stores are in the business of making money, not breeding responsibly.)

How often should I feed my puppy and how much?

Free-feeding can cause many bad eating habits and is not recommended for Dobermans. Generally twice a day (morning and evening) is suggested. If the dog does not eat his ‘meal’ within 15 to 20 minutes – be sure to pick up the food and then feed at the next meal. No dog will starve itself to death– so if the dog or pup misses a meal it’s not a worry – unless there is an underlying medical issue. Make sure you know why the dog or pup refused the meal. Make sure you don’t ‘up the ante’ by putting something really yummy on the food to convince the dog or pup to eat. This will just be setting yourself up for failure. As the dog will assuredly continue to raise the stakes until all it wants is the yummy portion and not the rest of the meal. You do need to keep an eye on your dog or puppy’s weight. You should be able to see the outline of the third rib fairly easily. Obesity in Doberman’s can lead to many other health issues.

Not only is it better to schedule your dogs meals health wise – but it will also allow you to housebreak the puppy more easily. This way you can put the pup outside after a meal. Usually in about 15 to 30 minutes they’ve done their business.

Be aware, however, that there will be times with every dog, no matter what kind of feeding schedule, where the dog will need to go out during the night to potty, or, if you're a late sleeper/worker, at least by the time it's light out. Keep in mind that if you work during the day it’s a good idea to give the pup a small meal before you leave for work. Often a dog that's hungry will vomit up yellow bile. A small meal in the morning should keep this from happening, but shouldn't cause the dog undue distress from needing to relieve itself during the day. You can feed the dog its main portion of food in the evening when you're home to walk it.

Approximately the same rules apply to water. It won't do a puppy any harm to have its water source removed about an hour before bedtime and not have access to water until the morning. Fresh water should be available with every meal. Once the dog is housebroken, free access to water unless you will be gone for an extraordinarily long period of time should not be a problem.

What is bloat (gastric torsion)?

Bloat (otherwise known as "gastric torsion") can be a problem with any deep-chested breed like Dobermans. The stomach twists so nothing can pass through the esophagus to the stomach or through the stomach to the intestines, causing gas to build up. This is an immediate health concern where the dog should be taken to the vet or emergency clinic. Signs of bloat include a distended rigid abdomen, indications of vomiting with no results and inability to belch or pass gas.

High activity directly before or after eating can exacerbate bloating. Keeping the dog quiet at least one hour before and after eating can help reduce the chances of bloat. Pre-moistening the dog's food with water can also reduce the chances, however, without the teeth-cleaning help of crunching food, you will want to take especially good care of your dog's teeth by weekly tooth-brushing and hard biscuits to help remove tartar. (Be sure to include any treats you give in the balance of food intake. Too many treats may cause your dog to gain weight, and treats only may not give the dog the nutrition it needs).

What is the life expectancy of a Doberman?

Most lines of Dobermans will live to between 10-13 years of age. 11-12 years is probably a very reasonable expectation. A Doberman becomes "middle-aged" between 5-7 years old, and is generally considered "geriatric" at about 10. Their food intake and exercise and nutrition needs may change over this period of time. They may begin to develop stiffness in their joints (much like people do as they get older). Healthy teeth are important as bacteria from decaying teeth can affect the health of the dog.

Are Dobermans smart and easy to train?

Yes and no to both. Most Dobermans are eager and willing to learn and enjoy training sessions (don't overdo with a young pup - they just don't have the attention span). If you start young and teach your puppy its order in your "pack", problems with training will be minimized. However, Dobermans tend to have more dominant personalities than some breeds and can be stubborn, so some care in training is recommended. Classes are extremely beneficial. A Doberman that thinks it's the Alpha member of the pack can be trouble.

My adolescent Doberman is limping! What should I do?

Don't panic. You should take your pup to your vet. Most likely the vet will confirm that your pup has panosteitis, an inflammation of the long bones in the legs of adolescent pups. It's fairly common in Dobermans. It's also known as "long bone disease", "shifting leg lameness" and "growing pains". "Pano" can be detected and diagnosed by x-ray.

Onset can be from 5-12 months (occasionally later) and last until 18 months or more. Though it is uncomfortable for the puppy, it almost always grows out of it. The lameness need not be limited to one leg. Pano is generally considered to be a polygenic trait with limited heritability.

What is Schutzhund?

Schutzhund is German for "protection dog", but it also refers to a training discipline and dog sport involving 3 phases; obedience, tracking and protection. It is supposed to be a fun experience for both the dog and the handler. If it isn't for one or the other, don't consider it. Find another activity. Schutzhund is not the be all and end all of training.

What is French Ring Sport?

This sport has been evolving into its present form in France for just about one century. Introduced to North America in 1986, it has been attracting a great deal of interest in the sport dog community. The North American Ring sport Association (N.A.R.A.) is the governing organization fro North America. It is a sport of Obedience, agility and protection. It also is meant to be fun for both the dog and handler. Like Schutzhund it takes a great deal of commitment of time and energy so be prepared to get involved and do lots of homework.

Will protection training make my dog vicious?

Protection sport training is probably the most misunderstood training in existence. Many people think that sport protection training is making the dogs vicious and aggressive towards people. The dogs are not taught to bite the person, but to bite the fabric. In the basic training the dog is taught to play with a burlap sack, sort of a tug of war. The dog is then graduated to seizing a tube of burlap/fabric and stuffing. Then the dog is graduated to a leg sleeve and then to a decoy suit or sleeve. If the decoy, the man in the suit, were to take off the suit and shake it around, the dog will grab the suit and start a tug of war, in the same manner as he/she did with the burlap sack. If the decoy were to run away holding the suit, dangling from an out stretched hand, exposing the rest of the man to the dog, the dog would grasp the suit and pay no attention to the man. The dog is taught to grab the fabric. The decoy is friendly towards the dog and many times, in training, the dog will climb up in the decoy's lap and lick his face, immediately after the protection session is over. We encourage this behavior all through the training, after all this is a "Sport". The dogs can leave the protection field and mingle with total strangers, which occurs at all the trials as the dog is leaving the trial field. If you watched a dog on the field tugging away at the suit on the man, you would see his tail wagging away, because he likes his tug of war game. This is what Sport Protection training is all about, a tug of war on the fabric!